By motorhome from Salt Lake City to San FranciscoWe spent seven weeks traveling in a rented motorhome in the west of the USA and divided this trip into several main stages - one of the longest was the stretch from Salt Lake City to San Francisco.
A trip like this is like a good book, it has a beginning, a middle and hopefully a positive end. Like the plot of a novel, journeys can be divided into several chapters. Each of these sections somehow belongs together thematically. The travelers, in this case us, thus become the authors of their own story.
There are several chapters to be written from our six-month journey that started in Vienna and took us via Paris, the Caribbean, Central America and North America. We decided to combine the relatively long route from Salt Lake City (Utah) to Petaluma and San Francisco (California). The route is certainly not one of the main tourist routes in the western United States, but it has many surprises to offer and that is what makes it so attractive.
From Salt Lake to Antelope Island
We have already reported on our experiences in Salt Lake City in our last blog. After a night out and a tour of Utah's capital, we made our way to Antelope Island State Park. We didn't know what to expect and were again pleasantly surprised.
The route is around 65 kilometers (40.5 miles) long and leads along the initially busy “city highway” I 215 N into the outskirts of Salt Lake City. It doesn't take long before you leave the city behind and approach the Great Salt Lake, passing countless housing estates, some of them newly built. If you take exit 332 off Interstate 15, you are in the right place. Antelope Island State Park is located west of the town of Layton, north of Salt Lake City, and after around 7 miles on Antelope Drive you will find yourself in front of the park entrance. The entrance fee was 15 dollars per vehicle and was valid for up to 8 people - this may of course have changed.
If you want to spend the night on Antelope Island, you should definitely reserve a pitch or cabin at one of the official campsites in advance - two days in advance is recommended. We opted for the slightly better equipped Bridger Bay Campground, which we reached after another 7 miles over the narrow causeway. We could even admire the lake from our pitch. A great campground, with differently equipped sites and small but expensive rental cabins.
More information about Antelope Island State Park: https://www.utah.com/destinations/state-parks/antelope-island-state-park/#readmore
Antelope Island: Ein Naturparadies ersten Ranges
Nach vier besuchten Nationalparks und mehreren State Parks und Recreation Areas – allesamt wunderbar – waren wir inzwischen mehr als verwöhnt. Der Stopp am großen Salzsee war für uns mehr ein Mittel zum Zweck auf der als unspektakulär eingestuften Route bis nach San Francisco. Ach, wie falsch wir doch lagen. Wir hätten es besser wissen sollen, denn die Vereinigten Staaten haben uns schon mehrfach bewiesen, dass sie auch abseits der bekanntesten Highlights unglaublich viel zu bieten haben. Bereits die Anfahrt über die mitten im salzigen Wasser liegende Straße hat uns einen Vorgeschmack auf dieses außergewöhnliche Naturerlebnis gegeben.
Antelope Island ist nicht immer eine Insel, da sie mit dem Festland verbunden ist, wenn der Wasserstand niedrig ist, und das ist er schon länger. Sie ist mit einer Fläche von 42 Quadratmeilen die größte von zehn Inseln im Großen Salzsee und ein Natur- und Wildtierparadies. Hier gab es viele Jahre lang keine Antilopen, doch 1993 wurden sie wieder angesiedelt und sind neben Hirschen, Rotluchsen, Kojoten, vielen Vogelarten und Wasservögeln nun in vielen Bereichen des Parks zu sehen. Am bekanntesten ist jedoch der amerikanische Bison von Antelope Island, der 1893 auf die Insel gebracht wurde und heute etwa 600 Exemplare zählt. Vor den wuchtigen Tieren sollte man sich allerdings in Acht nehmen.
Im Antelope Island State Park kann man einiges unternehmen - es war großartig.
The state park is basically uninhabited, but has a small marina, picnic and camping areas, a restaurant and the modern and informative visitor center. We also visited the historic ranch house, which impressively shows how people worked and lived on Antelope Island over 100 years ago. But there are also plenty of other leisure activities, especially the numerous hiking trails. We will definitely come here again if we are in the area.
Salt Lake City - Antelope Island
Route length: 40.5 miles / 65 kilometers
Travel time: around 45 minutes
From Antelope Island to Wendover
The drive to our next stop took us through the great salt flats and across the state line from Utah into Nevada. About 115 miles after leaving the Bridger Bay Campground, it became white on both sides of the road for over 50 miles, brilliant white. Without exaggerating, we felt like we were on another planet. Elon Musk doesn't need to go to Mars, he just needs to come here.
“The great Salt Lake Desert” was formed towards the end of the last ice age. The drying up of Lake Bonneville, which extended west of the Rocky Mountains over a large part of the Great Basin and of which the Great Salt Lake is the largest remnant today, has created an area of around 10,360 km² of curious salt landscape. Just before Wendover, the only significant town, there are parking lots and the opportunity to take a walk through this extraordinary desert landscape. Of course, we didn't want to miss out on this.
We were all very impressed by the vast salt desert.
Our next campsite was the KOA Journey in Wendover. The town of around 1500 inhabitants is already in Nevada, as you can clearly see from the casinos. There is not much to do here, which is why we only spent one night here. There were still plenty of free pitches at the campsite, but we were still able to have interesting conversations with other campers and long-term travelers from the States.
Antelope Island - Wendover KOA Journey
Route length: 160 miles / 257.5 kilometers
Travel time: around 2 hours 40 minutes
From Wendover to the South Fork Recreation Area
It got windy on our next stage. In strong crosswinds, a motorhome is not necessarily the best means of transportation and it can even happen that the motorhome is knocked over by the high pressure. We didn't want to try this, so we drove carefully and slowly. At Elko, we were finally able to leave the strenuous I 80 W and drive towards Spring Creek. Our next campsite was right next to the picturesque South Fork Reservoir in the state park of the same name. It was the next site that immediately appealed to us.
The South Fork State Recreation Area is a Nevada state park unit covering nearly 4,000 acres and is located five miles (8.0 km) south of Elko. The park includes the 670-acre South Fork Reservoir, two campgrounds and the surrounding marshes, meadows and hills. As soon as we arrived, we came across a rattlesnake next to our motorhome - so it is advisable to be particularly careful in this area.
We were able to enjoy the sunset over the lake on our very first evening, wrapped up in a thick blanket. Although it was quite hot here during the day, the temperatures dropped significantly in the evening - just the way we like it, because you don't sleep very well in a heated motorhome. The next day we went for a walk around the lake, which wasn't easy at all. Firstly, the sun was burning relentlessly, secondly, the route turned out to be almost 14 kilometers longer than expected and thirdly, the path is interrupted by the dam and we had to climb over very rough terrain. Fortunately, we didn't come across another snake.
The South Fork State Park is definitely worth a visit. We spent two nights here.
Wendover - South Fork Recreation Area
Distance: 123 miles / 198 kilometers
Travel time: around 2 hours (without wind)
From South Fork to Rye Patch State Park
From one state park we went straight into the next. Back on I 80 W, we continued west. Fortunately, the strong wind had died down. After 170 miles (113 kilometers) we stopped at the advertised Thunder or Lightning Mountain Monument - a very strange place. This monument is located right next to Interstate 80 and contains a series of art sculptures and architectural forms that Frank Van Zant, a war veteran with indigenous roots, put together after his arrival in Imlay, Nevada in 1969.
Frank Van Zant was from Oklahoma and identified as a Creek Indian due to his upbringing. After a revelation, he adopted the Native American name Rolling Mountain Thunder and dedicated himself to the task of building shelters from the presumed impending apocalypse. His strange “works of art” eventually became a spiritual refuge of the hippie era. Admission is free, but free donations are gladly accepted to help maintain this weird place. Well, at least we were there!
The “Lightning Mountain Monument” can safely be described as a strange place.
After another 25 minutes' drive, we arrived at our next campsite in Rye Patch State Park. Unfortunately, we were allocated a pitch on the upper level - the pitches down by the river are much nicer and shadier. However, moving down was out of the question on Memorial Day weekend. All the pitches were fully booked. Nevertheless, the state park has its charm. With 72 miles of shoreline surrounding the huge Humboldt River reservoir, the Rye Patch State Recreation Area offers easily accessible camping, picnicking, swimming, hiking and fishing opportunities.
The Humboldt River stretches across most of northern Nevada and is considered the largest river in both the state of Nevada and the entire Great Basin region.
Rye Patch Park is located on the Humboldt River and offers a number of beautiful views.
South Fork Recreation Area - Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Route length: 190 miles / 306 kilometers
Travel time: around 3 hours
From Rye Patch State Park to Washoe Lake
We really like the US State Parks, because after Rye the next one was on the program. Separated from the large Lake Tahoe by an imposing mountain range is the manageable Lake Washoe State Park. The drive took us back over the interstate, through Reno towards Carson City.
The state park is located in a picturesque valley and offers breathtaking views of the Sierra Nevada, Carson and Virginia mountain ranges. A popular area for hiking, camping, picnicking, water sports and horseback riding, the area is also home to a wide variety of birds and waterfowl, including American white pelicans, Canada geese and the majestic bald eagle. We were even able to see magnificent wild horses on the shores of the lake, a great experience. In this area, the Wild West still has a more original meaning and more than once we saw men carrying their firearms openly - a very unusual sight for us Europeans.
We would have liked to spend more than two nights at Washoe Lake Park.
Rye Patch State Park - Wahoe Lake State Park
Route length: 145 miles / 234 kilometers
Travel time: around 2 hours 15 minutes
From Washoe Lake to New Melones Lake
This stage took us back to California. This route was a surprise for us, as it took us through the Bear Valley Mountain Resort and thus over an impressive mountain range with an altitude of almost 2600 meters. The views on this route were spectacular and we had to stop several times to take photos. There was still snow next to the road at the end of May, but the temperature was still very pleasant. Further down, it got really warm again.
The drive over the mountains to California was challenging but breathtaking.
The landscape changed rapidly on the descent out of the mountains. We first drove through typical high mountains with few trees and rugged rock formations, followed by dense coniferous forest and finally the typical Californian rolling hills. It was a great day's stage that we were allowed to drive in our motorhome until we landed in “Frogtown”.
Angels Camp, also known as the City of Angels, is the only incorporated town in Calaveras County and sits at an elevation of 1381 feet (421 m). Mark Twain wrote his famous short story “The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County” supposedly based on a story he heard at the Angels Hotel in 1865. The Jumping Frog Jubilee is celebrated east of town at the Calaveras County Fairgrounds, which is why Angels Camp is sometimes called “Frogtown”. In the competition, frogs compete against each other in the long jump. The town also impresses with its iconic western and gold panning flair and is a historic California landmark (No. 287).
The “Frogtown” Angels Camp has a very special flair.
A great campsite by the lake
We were also very lucky with our next campground. The Glory Hole recreation area is located on New Melones Lake on the Stanislaus River. The 12,500-hectare lake is the fourth largest reservoir in California and lies on the edge of the Mother Lode, the rich vein of gold that triggered the Californian gold rush of 1849. You can enjoy a variety of recreational activities on the expansive but never crowded lake. The New Melones Visitor Center offers informative events throughout the year and a museum highlighting the natural and cultural resources of this region.
New Melones Lake is very spacious and a great nature and leisure paradise.
The campsite is one of the liveliest places on the entire round trip and was accordingly well booked. Many stressed city families obviously spend their days off here, but the atmosphere was always excellent. We would have liked to spend more time here too. At least we were able to visit the visitor center, take a walk through Angels Camp and do a short tour of the area. Unfortunately, we didn't get a parking space at the recommended Natural Bridges Trailhead and had to skip this hiking trail.
New Melones Lake is a great tip for a family vacation.
Washoe Lake State Park – Glory Hole Recreation Area
Distance: 130 miles / 210 kilometers
Travel time: around 3 hours
From New Melones Lake to Moss Landing
The motto of the next stage was: Back to the coast! Moss Landing is located 18 miles (29 km) northeast of Monterey, on the shores of Monterey Bay and at the mouth of Elkhorn Slough. The area around Moss Landing is one of the most unique ecosystems on earth. The fishing village is a highlight of oceanic research and development and offers tourists a glimpse into this lush treasure trove of nature.
We spent three nights directly at the harbor, at the small but very well-maintained Moss Landing KOA Express, and explored the region from here.
Trips you can take from Moss Landing:
Go to the nearby and very beautiful beach: The shoreline of Salinas River State Park offers a spacious and often deserted beach that is great for bird and sea lion watching. You will also be greeted by friendly sea otters on the river.
The beach at Moss Landing is just minutes from the KOA campground.
Take a little harbor walk: The small boat harbor at Moss Landing is right next to the KOA campground. Anyone who follows the loud calls of the sea lions from here will reach their campsite on one of the numerous boat piers.
You can meet nice fellows on a harbor walk in Moss Landing. Here: Jonathan.
Take a guided tour of the Elkhorn Slough Reserve: These tours give you a great insight into the flora and fauna of this extraordinary nature reserve. Highly recommended.
The boat ride through Elkhorn Slough was a great nature experience.
Trip to Monterey: Located on the rugged coastline, Monterey was once the center of the sardine packing industry. The city was immortalized by writer John Steinbeck. Today there are souvenir shops, seafood restaurants and bars in converted factories. Also famous is the Monterey Bay Aquarium with thousands of marine animals and plants and interactive exhibits.
Sightseeing in Carmel by the Sea: This town is something special. The numerous architecturally unique houses make this small town feel like you are in a fairy tale. There are no mailboxes or house numbers here and only in the last few years has mail been delivered on request. There are also no streetlights, no franchise restaurants downtown, no parking meters and no neon signs. Is that because Clint Eastwood lives here and was even mayor from 1986 to 1988? While you're here, you should also visit the beautiful beach and walk along the scenic Scenic Road overlooking the sea from start to finish. Carmel by the Sea is one of the most beautiful but also one of the most expensive cities in all of California!
Carmel by the Sea has the charm of an enchanted fairytale town - enchanting.
Drive to San Francisco: The drive to San Francisco (95 miles/153 kilometers) and especially the search for a parking space was too strenuous for us with a motorhome, but it is definitely doable. We decided not to visit San Francisco until our next campground in Petaluma (see next blog).
Glory Hole Recreation Area – Moss Landing
Route length: 167 miles / 269 kilometers
Travel time: around 3 hours 20 minutes
From Moss Landing to Petaluma
The drive from Moss Landing to Petaluma already leads to and through San Francisco. On this route we had to struggle quite laboriously through city traffic to get across the legendary Golden Gate Bridge into the surrounding area. Petaluma is located between Wine Country and San Francisco and is about an hour's drive from the eternal hippie capital. The city in Sonoma County offers a range of activities, some of which are quite expensive. Shopping, art enjoyment, cultural festivals, spa and yoga studios, but also some places with good food - we missed all of this in Petaluma because we primarily enjoyed the pool and hot tub at our KOA Holiday campsite and made the most of our time find new friends.
Nestled between tall, shade trees, the expansive KOA site is one of the best campgrounds for families. Here you can choose between differently equipped camping options and take advantage of numerous leisure activities.
More information about KOA-Petaluma: https://koa.com/campgrounds/san-Francisco/
On the second day we took the chance and were taken to San Francisco by a nice couple from Florida (who we met in the Hot Tube). From the famous Fisherman's Wharf we took a hop-on - off tour through the city and, tired but happy, took the Uber back to our motorhome. More about this city trip and about San Francisco can be found in our next blog “A Day in San Francisco”.
Moss Landing - Petaluma
Distance: 139 miles / 224 kilometers
Travel time: around 2 hours 15 minutes
Conclusion
The route from Salt Lake City to San Francisco took us 17 days of travel and was much more varied than originally expected. The route, which runs to Reno via Interstate 80, leads through the great salt flats, through the high plains of Nevada, the Bear Valley Mountain Resort and the associated mountain range down to the rolling hills of California. We stayed overnight in several state parks along the varied route, enjoyed great views, saw many different animals, took a boat tour and visited a cosmopolitan city. As you can see, this route alone is worth making a trip to the western United States. We love the freedom on the streets of the USA and will definitely come back.
Steffi and Max hope you have fun with our blog and even more fun traveling on your own. If you want to find out more, just follow us on Facebook or Instagram.
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